How to Choose a Custom Summer Suit: Fabric, Construction, and Color

For those with a passion for suits, summer tailoring offers far more variety than traditional winter styles. When it comes to fabric, cut, and color, you have greater freedom to experiment and express your personal style.

First, let's talk fabric selection.

1. Linen

Linen is exceptionally comfortable in the heat. Its natural plant fibers allow for high breathability and moisture-wicking, so you stay cool and dry even during long hours outdoors. It’s also heat-resistant, non-flammable, and low in conductivity.

2. Seersucker

Seersucker is a classic warm-weather fabric. Its distinctive crinkled texture creates air pockets that enhance airflow, making it wonderfully lightweight and breezy. The fabric requires little maintenance—it’s soft, resists clinging, and generally doesn’t need ironing after washing.

3. Blends

Blended fabrics tend to be lighter and thinner than pure wool, making them a practical choice for summer. They also offer a wider range of colors and textures, with better wrinkle resistance, drape, and luster than pure linen—though they often come at a higher price point.

4. Wool

It might come as a surprise, but wool is actually a fantastic temperature regulator, even in warm weather. Desert dwellers have long relied on it for both extreme heat and cold.

For summer, opt for lightweight wool with a lower grammage. These fabrics are thin and breathable, and wrinkles tend to fall out naturally when the jacket is hung up.

Consider blends like wool-linen or wool-cotton, or explore summer suiting collections from premium mills such as Loro Piana (under LV), VBC, or Scabal, which regularly introduce lightweight options ideal for business wear.

5. Cotton-Linen Blends

Cotton is widely used for its excellent moisture absorption and breathability. It’s gentle on the skin and relatively affordable. However, pure cotton suits may lack the structure needed for formal business settings, so blending it with wool or linen is often a better choice.

6. Dupioni Silk

Since emerging on the Riviera in the 1920s, dupioni silk has stood out for its rich texture, natural sheen, and elegant drape—making it a luxurious summer option.

It shares some qualities with mohair-linen blends, combining subtle luster with a tactile, airy feel, while offering superior fall and movement.

Second, construction and technique.

Suit construction is generally categorized into structured and soft-tailored styles, which refers to the amount and type of interfacing, padding, and lining used.

Terms like full-canvas, half-canvas, and fused refer to how the suit is built—essentially how much internal structure is added. But when summer calls for coolness, the guiding principle is simple: the lighter, the better.

A thick lining or heavy shoulder padding can feel like wearing an extra layer, which isn’t ideal in the heat. While features like sweat-proof underarm shields might sound practical, they can reduce breathability and become uncomfortable when you perspire.

So for a summer suit, aim for a lightweight jacket with minimal or no lining—it’s the surest way to stay cool and comfortable.

Third, color.

Summer invites a different palette than other seasons. Playing with lightness and saturation can reflect the spirit of the season. Unless you're in corporate or legal environments where dark suits are the norm, consider stepping away from deep shades in your daily summer rotation.

Fresh, bright blues are always a great choice. Earthy tones like brown can work beautifully for warmer complexions, especially when paired with subtle checks or patterns that feel seasonally appropriate.